Zahel Ried Goldberg Grüner Veltliner 2020
Background
Vienna is the only city in Europe (and maybe in the world) that has real-deal high quality vineyards within the city limits. Historically, these urban vineyards would provide the wine that lubricated the Viennese coffee shops and heurigens (a kind of pub, serving wine and sausages). The equivalent would be if Toronto had world-class vineyards in Downsview or Rouge Hill. These vineyards are made famous by a wine called Gemischter-Satz (“mixed phrase”), which is a blend made from these urban vineyards.
This Grüner is from the Goldberg vineyard on the Laaerberg hill, in the extreme south end of the city. The only thing keeping this wine from not having the more prestigious designation of Gemischter Satz is the fact that it’s a single variety, not a blend (which we always think is cool).
Check out this week’s Cheat Sheet for some more info on Viennese wine.
The Zahel family has been managing vineyards and making wine here for generations. They were in the unique position of both producing wine, and running a heurigen in which to sell it. They were their own wine supplier for years and years. It was only in 1994 that they began selling outside of their own bar.
Tasting Notes
It’s no surprise that their gowing and production methods are top notch. Austria has some of the strictest wine quality control in the world. Zahel is certified organic AND biodynamic. So no herbicides, no pesticides, and they make most of their own fertilizer on site. These Grüner grapes are hand-harvested and fermented in stainless steel, to preserve all those fresh citrus and ripe apple flavours. This wine has a beautiful balance between ripeness and acidity, richness and freshness. Getting the right mix of these factors isn’t easy, and shows some skillful winemaking.
Food Pairing
Absolutely Nothing (Say it Again!) - There are tons of classic food pairings for Grüner, but it also makes a GREAT aperitif. Need something bright and fresh to sip on before a big meal? This is it.
Frisée & Apple Salad - This wine is packed with ripe apple flavours, so this pairing is a no brainer. Grüner has a mild vegetal ‘greeness’ that is a home run with anything in the chicory family (frisée, celery, endive etc.).
Potato Pancakes/Latkes - having something starchy, salty and deep-fried? Grüner is going to be your friend. The best part is that it will work equally well with apple sauce OR sour cream. Happy Hanukkah!